Sanitary Management Part - II (For Lecture Purpose including References)

FLUSHING CISTERN

—  The Cistern Flush Toilet is usually porcelain and is a mass-produced, factory made User Interface. The flush toilet consists of a water tank that supplies the water for flushing the excreta and a bowl into which the excreta are deposited.

FAUCET

Identifying your faucet type is an essential first step before any repair. This tutorial will give you an overview of the four most common types of faucets used in the home:

• Ball
• Disc
• Cartridge
• Compression

The first three (ball, disc, and cartridge) are all types of "washer less faucets" since they do not use rubber or neoprene washers. The latter (compression) is very much like your basic washer faucet.

—  Ball faucets are very common in kitchen sinks and were the first type of washer less faucet. They are identifiable by their single handle that moves over a rounded ball-shaped cap right above the base of the faucet spout. The ball faucet has a single handle that controls a special plastic or metal ball inside the faucet body. Depending on the ball's position, the ball/lever assembly controls the flow and mixing temperature of the water coming out of the faucet.Because of the number of parts which make up this type of faucet, ball faucets tend to leak more than other washer less faucets such as the cartridge faucet or disc faucet. Handle Type: Single

—  Ceramic disk faucets are the latest development in modern faucet technology. They are identifiable by their single lever over a wide cylindrical body. The disk faucet mixes hot and cold water inside a mixing chamber called a pressure balance cartridge. Two ceramic disks at the bottom of the chamber will raise and lower to control the volume of water flow. The temperature is controlled by a side-to-side rotation of the handle. These faucets are high quality, very reliable, and do not need repair very often. Handle Type: Single

—  Double-handle cartridge faucets look almost indistinguishable from a compression washer faucet. However, you can tell the difference by how the handles feel when used. A compression faucet requires you to tighten down (compress) the washer to close the water flow. With a cartridge faucet, the action is smooth and consistent. With a half turn, the handle goes from the off to the on position. The faucet turns off without added pressure being required as with a compression faucet. Handle Type: Single or Double

—  Compression washers have been around since the beginning of on-demand indoor plumbing. They are found in older homes, and updated versions are often found used in utility sinks in newer homes to this day. These faucets are typically the least expensive but are most prone to leaks and maintenance. Compression washer faucets are identifiable by their separate hot and cold water handles and their action requiring you to tighten the handles down to close off the water flow. These faucets work by using a compression stem, which is a type of glorified screw with a washer at the end of it pressing against a valve seat. Handle Type: Double

WATER TRAPS

—  Traps are defined as fittings at the end of soil pipes of waste pipes to prevent foul gases coming out of the soil pipe/ waste pipe.

—  Traps are an integral part of a modern sanitary system, being designed to retain a small quantity of the waste water from the discharge of fitting to which they are attached as a barrier to prevent foul air entering the building.

—  Traps should be self-cleaning, that is to say , they should be designed so that their walls are scoured by the discharging water.

—  One of the advantages of modern traps constructed of plastic materials is the ease with which they may be dismantled for cleaning.

—  A trap is a device which is used to prevent sewer gases from entering the buildings. Common Gases that Are Produced in a Sewage System.

Methane

Hydrogen Sulphide

Nitrogen

Carbon Monoxide

Depending upon the shapes the traps are classified as:

·         P-Trap

·         Q-Trap

·         S-Trap

·         Some other kind of traps are:

·         NAHNI-Trap/FLOOR-Trap

·         GULLY-Trap

·         INTERCEPTING-Trap

·         GREASE-Trap

·         BOTTLE-Trap

Traps: Good Traps should have following Qualities:

            • Should provide enough water seal (around 50 mm) with large surface area.

            • Interiors surface should be smooth so that the flow is not obstructed which enables self cleansing.

            • An assess door should be provided for cleaning the trap.

            • It should be made of non- adsorbent material.

NANHI TRAP

This trap is provided in the floor to collect waste water from washbasin, shower, sink and bathroom etc. These are available in cast iron or UPVC material and have removable grating (JALI) on the top of the trap. The minimum depth of water seal should be 50 mm.

GULLY TRAP

These traps are constructed outside the building to carry waste water discharge from washbasin, sinks, bathroom etc. and are connected to the nearest building drain/sewer so that foul gases from sewer do not come to the house.

INTERCEPTING TRAP

This trap is provided at the last main hole of building sewerage to prevent entry of foul gases from public sewer to building sewer. It has a deep-water seal of 100 mm.

PIPES

 Main service pipe - Which supplies water to the building.
 Fixture branch pipes - Which supply water to single fixtures.
 Distribution (branch) pipes - Which supply water to fixture branches.
 The common piping materials are plastic pipes, galvanized steel, brass and copper.

Types of Plastic Pipes

 Plastic pipes are the most required materials these days in plumbing system. Several grades of plastics are available:
  Acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene (ABS) – Plumbing drainage system.
 Polybutylene (PB) – Cold and hot water and gas.
 Polyethylene (PE) – Cold water.
 Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) – Cold water.
 Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride (CPVC) – Cold and hot water pipes that do not exceed 180ºF (82.2ºC).

SOIL PIPES

 A soil vent pipe (SVP), also known as a soil stack pipe, drain-waste-vent or  ventilated discharge pipe, is typically a vertical pipe that removes sewage and grey water from a building. It is often attached to the exterior of a building (although it may be fitted internally) and connects the drainage system to a point just above the level of the roof gutter.
 Soil vent pipes allow the removal of waste from toilets, showers, baths and sinks, while also allowing odours to be released above the building, via a stack vent, at a level that will not cause a nuisance. The pipe’s vents also allow air into the internal drainage system so as to facilitate the process of aerobic sewage digestion, preventing a siphoning affect from occurring, and allowing free flow by gravity.
 SVPs must maintain sufficient downward slope along their length to keep liquids and entrained solids flowing freely towards the drain.
 Traditionally, soil vent pipes were made from cast iron; however, today they are most commonly made from uPVC.


Blockages and Leakages of pipes and Their Remedies

 For a quick and easy fix for your blocked drains, try pouring a pot of boiling water into the drain. In many cases, this is enough to loosen or dissolve the blockage without having to resort to more drastic measures. Only use this method on metal or ceramic pipes, as the heat can loosen joints on PVC pipes.
 Instead of harmful chemicals, this drain un-blocker uses a gas that expands when it comes into contact with water. This generates a strong turbulence that clears drains up to 20 metres away by agitation, rather than pressure. It'll remove blockages caused by hair, soap build-up, paper, grease and food particles in seconds. You can use it on blocked or slow-flowing sinks, basins, baths or shower trays. And with the optional plunger head, it can even clear blocked and slow-flowing toilets.
 If your fitting is completely blocked, partially fill it with water and place the cup of a sink plunger over the plug-hole. Stuff a damp cloth into the overflow to prevent any loss of pressure. Then pump the plunger up and down vigorously. Take the plunger away and see if the water now drains. You may need to do this a couple of times.
 If that fails, try using a chemical drain cleaning product. Put on some protective gloves and goggles, and make sure you follow the instructions carefully as the cleaner is very toxic. Don't use it around other chemicals such as bleach, as this could release dangerous gases. It's also a good idea to spread some petroleum jelly around the rim of the plug-hole to protect it from damage.
 If the blockage still hasn't cleared, you'll have to remove the waste trap/Joints of any water fittings. Put a bucket under it to catch any spillage, then unscrew the trap and empty the contents into the bucket. Put the trap back together, making sure you replace any washers or O-rings. But don't over-tighten it, as it'll be difficult to undo in the future.  If there wasn't anything blocking the waste trap, use a drain auger to probe into the waste pipe.

Remedy of Leakage Pipes

 It is important to point out that pipe repair largely depends on the type of leak that you are facing. Typically, the degree of leaks can vary from a simple drip to one that can essentially flood your home. Let’s say that the pipe leak is caused by a loose joint, then all you have to do is to tighten the connection and the leaking pipe problem is resolved.
 But, if the problem is with the pipe itself, then you either have to remove the section that is leaking or replace the entire pipe depending on its condition. Replacing pipes can be quite complicated depending on the actual plumbing layout in hotel and the type of pipe used.
Alternative Solutions
 Patch Kits – It is a piece of heavy rubber that can go around the diameter of the leaking water pipe. If you have an old inner tube lying around this can do, all you need is to pair it up with a C-clamp. Another option with patch kits is to use an old hose clamp with a rubber patch. The metal plates compresses the pad over the hole to stop the leak. This can be a permanent solution for pipe repair if the leak is not that strong and the condition of the pipe is still excellent.
 Waterproof Tape – this is a special compound that can be wrapped around the bad section of the pipe to stop the leak. It can be used with epoxy paste or plugged into the hole. It is important to make sure that the pipe is totally dry before the waterproof tape is applied. The tape should start about 2 to 3 inches before the leak and end approximately the same length away from it.
 Compound Stick – when dealing with small, pinhole-like leaks, this is one of the best alternative solutions. Just rub it over the leak and it goes to work. You do not even have to turn the water supply off to use this. Epoxy based compound sticks however will only work if the pipe section to be treated is dry.